Brunia
About
Sondagskloof, the home of Brunia Wines, is defined as a cool climate winemaking region, much like the greater Cape South Coast Area. Generally, this is defined as having moderate temperatures within the growing season and higher than average rainfall compared to such regions as Swartland and Stellenbosch. Additionally the region has a maritime influence due to the close proximity to the ocean. Although as New Yorkers, there is a tendency to assume South Africa is a hot monolith, this simply isn't true for Sondagskloof. We like to think about it as an Southern Hemisphere coastal Mendocino.
The vineyards are situated on mountain slopes, some 300m above sea level and 18km from the ocean. This results in a longer than average growing season, allowing the grapes to reach true maturity, whilst also retaining acid and freshness in the wines. This in turn gives the wines an elegance in youth but also the ability to age.
The farm is planted to cultivars that are best suited to this environment, namely Sauvignon Blanc (11Ha), Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Semillon and Syrah (approx. 1.5Ha). The Sauvignon Blanc grapes are the oldest grapes on the farm, but the Pinot and Chardonnay are beginning to show real potential. The soil types are quite varied on the farm, with decomposed granite and quartz/sandstone most widely found. In addition, the farm has several bands of limestone which, of course, are well suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Sustainability is quite important for the estate, and all the vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically. In addition, the farm employs a number of holistic practices such as cover cropping and composting to develop soil health. In general, the winery strives for a closed ecosystem, utilizing grazing cows in the winter months and grass maintenance and making mulch for under the rows and many treatments from flowers from the fynbos nearby. Systemics are eschewed in favor of herbal sprays and treatments – one particular delicious sounding spray is the chili-garlic spray that both repels deer and kills fungi.
Wade’s interest in biodynamics comes both form his respect for the local environment and his time working with Thierry Germaine of Domaine De Roche Neuves in the Loire. While abroad, he also worked harvest at Domaine de la Tournelle where he “ was inspired by the old fashioned vigneron culture still prevalent in Jura” – a rarity in South Africa where there is generally a steep division between winemakers and grapegrowers. After returning home in 2015, Wade spent 6 years at Mullineaux, eventually becoming the assistant winemaker. This time was critical in exposing him to natural winemaking in his home country and demonstrating what is possible for local terroirs.
Products
Pinot Noir
Practicing Biodynamic. Grapes for 2022 Pinot Noir were sourced from a single vineyard parcel of sustainably farmed 12 year old vines grown on quartz based soils which contain limestone. The vineyard is situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This parcel gives a taut, mineral expression of Pinot Noir with a bright acidity, which lends tension and ageability to the wines. Grapes were picked in the early hours to ensure favourable temperatures. The grapes were processed to open top fermenters, 30% whole bunch was employed for perfume and structure, while the remaining 70% was destemmed on top. Minimal SO2 is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. The must is initially pumped over for homogenization, thereafter punch downs are employed 1 – 2 times per day for extraction. Maceration generally last 14 days, after which the wines are pressed to barrel for natural malolactic fermentation. The wine is racked and sulphured in late winter and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling. Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Sauvignon Blanc
Practicing Biodynamic. The Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from a 17 year old single vineyard parcel grown on granitic soils on the slopes of the Koueberg Mountains. The vineyard is situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This barrel aged wine takes influence from the oxidative wines of the Jura and shows a waxy, light flor flavor profile.The grapes were handpicked. Whole bunch pressing was employed, and the must was settled overnight. Minimal sulphur is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. At the first sign of fermentation the juice is racked to barrels where it will complete fermentation. Fermentation generally lasts 14 – 18 days after which the barrels are topped up, natural malolactic fermentation is encouraged. Once stable, the wine was topped regularly and aged on the fermentation lees for a further 9 months before racking. The wine was then aged for further 27 months in barrel without the use of sulphur to develop the oxidative elements of the wine.
White Blend (Sauv Blanc/Semillon)
Practicing Biodynamic. 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 33% Semillon. The Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from a 17 year old vineyard parcel and the Semillon from a 15 year old vineyard both grown on granitic soils. The vineyards are situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This is a linear expression of this classic white varietal blend, with an energetic acidity and chiseled structure, possesses great ageing potential. The cultivars were picked and fermented separately. Whole bunch pressing was employed, and the must was settled overnight. Minimal sulphur is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. At the first sign of fermentation the juice is racked to barrels where it will complete fermentation. Fermentation generally lasts 14 – 18 days after which the barrels are topped up, natural malolactic fermentation is encouraged. Once stable, the wines are topped regularly and aged on the fermentation lees for a further 9 months. The wine is racked and blended in October and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling.
