Kobatl

Fun-boy garagiste, serious farmer, Kobatl’s biohof of 3 hectares of vines and 10 of cider apple orchards—mature, open, complete examples of PiWi wines.


Wines

‘Flower Power’

Varietal: Muscaris

Color: White

Farming Practice: Biodynamic

Biodynamic. 100% Muscaris (PiWi variety: a cross of Muscat x Solaris, an aromatic northern Italian hybrid). Grapes are picked by hand into small crates, then brought into a cold room at the winery to rest for around a day. The Muscaris spent around 12 hours on the skins (cold-macerated); after pressing, it went into stainless steel for seven months on full lees; then it was racked and aged for a further eight months on fine lees. Unfined, unfiltered, ~15mg SO2 added just before bottling. Kobatl is located in a tiny pocket of the appellation of Vulkanland where heavy/dense volcanic soils dominate; winemaker Michl Gingl says these soils are the key to his wines and express “fruity and intense” flavors and aromas, as well as keeping general pH levels of his wines low. 2020 in Vulkanland was a cooler vintage: it kept acidity levels high, assisted in keeping pH levels low, and allowed for especially nice skin-macerated wines. This wine is definitely aromatic, but has a far more intense mineral profile and sense of refinement and length than in many other wines of its category.

‘My Dirty Siva’

Varietal: Souvignier Gris

Color: White

Farming Practice: Biodynamic

Biodynamic. 100% Souvignier Gris (a white PiWi variety: a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon x Bronner, an aromatic northern Italian hybrid). Grapes are picked by hand into small crates, then brought into a cold room at the winery to rest for around a day. This Souvignier Gris spent around three days hours on the skins (cold-macerated); after pressing, it went into neutral old barrels for thirteen months on full lees; then it was racked and aged for a further two months on fine lees. Unfined, unfiltered, ~15mg SO2 added just before bottling. Kobatl is located in a tiny pocket of the appellation of Vulkanland where heavy/dense volcanic soils dominate; winemaker Michl Gingl says these soils are the key to his wines and express “fruity and intense” flavors and aromas, as well as keeping general pH levels of his wines low. 2020 in Vulkanland was a cooler vintage: it kept acidity levels high, assisted in keeping pH levels low, and allowed for especially nice skin-macerated wines. This wine is saline, mineral, and subtle: it’s not a wine focused on aroma, but rather of power and persistence on the palate, with a sparkly sense of volcanic rock hiding out underneath.

‘Rumble in the Jungle’

Varietal: Sauvignac

Color: White

Farming Practice: Biodynamic

Biodynamic. 100% Sauvignac (a white Piwi variety: a cross of Sauvignon Blanc x Riesling x “unknown resistance partners;” i.e. a mystery hybrid grape that no one can identify yet. Sauvignac is described as a late-ripening, loose-berried, and frost-hardy vine with pink hard-skinned berries.) This Sauvignac spent around eight days on the skins (all cold-macerated). After pressing, it went into neutral wood (225L-500L) for thirteen months on full lees; then it was racked and aged for a further two months on fine lees. Unfined, unfiltered, ~15mg SO2 added just before bottling. Kobatl is located in a tiny pocket of the appellation of Vulkanland where heavy/dense volcanic soils dominate; winemaker Michl Gingl says these soils are the key to his wines and express “fruity and intense” flavors and aromas, as well as keeping general pH levels of his wines low. 2020 in Vulkanland was a cooler vintage: it kept acidity levels high, assisted in keeping pH levels low, and allowed for especially nice skin-macerated wines. This wine is unlike anything we have ever seen: it smells cool, green, and like someone infused the following fresh green herbs into a “normal” white wine: basil, tarragon, spearmint, chocolate mint. Depth and persistence on the palate.

Press