Péter Nagyváradi
About
The Balaton region, situated in western Hungary, is influenced heavily by Lake Balaton, the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe. What was originally five unique lakes slowly evolved, as ridges separating the lakes eroded and water levels rose, into one massive body of water stretched laterally across the region. The soils are rich in volcanic basalt, with veins of clay, sandstone and limestone weaving throughout. It’s no wonder that viticulture here, predominantly located on the north side of the lake, dates back over 2,000 years to the Celts and the Romans.
Péter began his solo journey into winemaking in 2019, when he found an old neglected vineyard of 80 year-old Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) bush vines called Arács. After two years of dedicated vineyard recovery, he was able to produce his very first vintage. Since then, he's added 3 more hectares of rented vines throughout the region in the villages of Monoszló, Hegyestü and the in the Tihany peninsula in the pursuit of "expressing the diversity of the region through old vineyards in harmony with nature." At the core of his philosophy is the notion that old vines will always be more resilient and adaptable, and thus best suited to a quick transition to a more regenerative form of agriculture after decades of compounded chemical abuse.
Farming at the estate is organic, and the fruit is always hand harvested in multiple passes to ensure optimal ripeness and balance. The white wines are pressed whole-cluster using an old vertical basket press, and the reds generally undergo carbonic maceration. All wines are barrel-fermented, and aged in barrels on the lees, with minimal to no sulfuring at bottling, and zero fining or filtration.
While other natural wines that have emerged from the region can feel as if they are sacrificing phenolic ripeness in service of maximizing freshness, Péter’s wines are beautifully balanced, with a depth of fruit and minerality that highlight their volcanic terroir. These are wines that represent not only a deep thousands-year-old winemaking history, but also a new generation of young, talented winemakers experimenting with and expanding the boundaries of Hungarian wine today.
Products
Chardonnay 'Perm'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay from young vines planted over sandstone and volcanic basalt. Hand harvested and whole bunch pressed using a vertical basket press. Fermented with native yeasts in 225L neutral barrels and aged on the gross lees in barrel for 9 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, with 10mg/l sulfitage. This is a wine where you really feel the volcanic terroir of Balaton. The bouquet is similar to wines from Tenerife or Etna, with reductive layers that give way to freshness and texture across the palate. Though direct pressed, the whole cluster basket press, and long lees aging affords the wine depth without weight, and a distinctly mineral finish.
Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) 'Roza'
Organic. 100% Kékfrankos (Blaufranksich) from 10 year old vines, planted to a single vineyard in Monoszló that features clay and limestone. The fruit is hand harvested, and pressed to a combination of 225L and 300L French and Hungarian barrels for fermentation with native yeasts. 2/3 of the fruit is whole cluster direct pressed to barrel, and the remainder is fermented for 12 days with carbonic maceration. The wine rests in barrel, on the lees for 9 months, and is bottled with no additions. This a great rosé for the late summer/fall. Deep, earthy and textural.
Furmint
Organic. 100% Furmint from 10-15 year old vines in Monoszló and Pécsely grown on limestone and basalt. The fruit is hand harvested, and whole cluster pressed to a combination of 225L, 300L and 500L neutral barrels for fermentation with native yeasts. The wine rests in barrel for 11 months, and is bottled sans soufre, with no fining or filtration. This is the most lean and linear of the white wines that Péter makes. Tons of cut and minerality, with a finish that goes forever.
Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) 'Monoslou'
Organic. 100% Kékfrankos (Blaufranksich) from 15 year old cordon trained vines grown on limestone in a single .8ha vineyard in Monoszló. The fruit is hand harvested and fermented whole cluster with carbonic maceration in 300L and 500L Austrian and Hungarian barrels. The wine rests on the lees in barrel for 11 months, and is bottled sans soufre, with no fining or filtration. Delicious, fruit forward and expressive iteration of Kékrankos. Super unique in that it does not remind one of any of the classic references for this variety. The bouquet and palate are balanced and generous, a very pleasurable cuvée. A great reminder that Kékrankos doesn’t have to be brooding or dense.
Olazriesling (Welschriesling) 'Aracs'
Organic. 100% Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) from a single .2ha vineyard of 80 year old bush trained vines, grown on gravel, limestone and loess. This was the first vineyard that Péter started working in 2018. It took 2 years to get any usable fruit from the vines as they were abandoned and completely overgrown. The picture for the labels was taken here, and interpreted by French painter Jules Maillard. The bush trained vines are important to Péter, and represent the way that vineyards have historically been worked in this region. The fruit is hand harvested and whole cluster pressed to 228L French barrels for fermentation with native yeasts. The wine rests in barrel, on the lees for 11 months, and is bottled unfined, unfiltered with 10 mg/l sulfitage. Arács is a special vineyard, and the wine certainly lives up to the hype. More concentrated than the other white cuvées, it bears a distinct resemblance to some of the great Romorantin of the Loire from growers like Claude Courtois. Very limited, don’t sleep!
Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) 'Karbon'
Organic. 100% Kékfrankos (Blaufranksich) from 10-15 year old vines in Monoszló and Pécsely grown on limestone and Pannonian sea sediment. Partially directly pressed whole bunch and partially carbonically macerated for 12 days. Fermented and aged in small and medium used barrels for 11 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with 10ppm SO2 at bottling.
